The Two Pigs

Liam Dillon, chef/patron of the fine-dining Boat near Lichfield, has taken a different tack for his second venture. His emphasis on local, seasonal and sustainable produce is unchanged, but the Two Pigs is a more casual, modern neighbourhood pub and bistro. The place is painted a smart but unobtrusive sage green, while food is served in the bar, the low-key dining room (note that tables for two are somewhat cramped) or the rear courtyard. The welcome could not be friendlier nor the service more helpful – and you can bring your dog. Although the pub is named after Betty and Peggy (permanent piggy residents at the Boat), you need to drop any anthropomorphic sentimentality if you are to enjoy a gargantuan, juicy pork chop, complete with a thick ribbon of fat and crackling, plus burnt apple purée, pommes Anna and pickled mustard seeds. All-day bar snacks show touches of urban sophistication (perhaps Maldon rock oysters with pickled red-wine shallots and hot sauce or fish croquettes with romesco sauce), while starters on our short but well-structured autumn menu included Liam’s signature fried chicken pieces with sesame and spring onion, and a mushroom parfait with toasted brioche and damson chutney. Among the mains were herb-crusted lamb shank with creamed mash and braised carrot, and a roasted whole plaice to share with samphire and beurre blanc. Desserts stick to the tried-and-tested likes of tiramisu and sticky toffee pudding. As well as a good wine list, there’s a selection of beers that includes their own Two Pigs Ale.

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence