The Pig near Bath

If you’re after a stunning location and laid-back luxury, the Mendip branch of this upmarket hotel chain doesn’t disappoint. Whet your appetite with a pre-dinner stroll round the beautiful walled kitchen garden, whence the restaurant’s ‘25 mile menu’ draws much of its produce. (Perhaps avoid visiting the hotel’s deer park and piggery for the same reason, unless you’ve a heart of stone.) The tastefully cluttered dining room with its mismatched fine bone china, artfully distressed furniture and abundant plants opens into a charming conservatory, where the best tables are found. The ultra-local menu (with a map of suppliers on the back) offers simply cooked and beautifully presented British food, with freshness its calling card. With such impeccable provenance, there should perhaps be a few more fireworks on the plate. Still, starters such as ‘kitchen garden on toast’ (finely shredded veg in a lemony dressing on a slab of toasted Bertinet bread slathered with creamed almonds) are like a mouthful of summer. To follow, a whole Newlyn plaice, topped with agretti and tiny edible blue flowers is as pretty as as picture, exquisitely cooked and easily enough for two. If no-frills puddings such as ‘zero mile gooseberries’ with cream and meringue don’t excite, there’s a wickedly tempting cheese menu. Service from a coterie of uniformed young staff is attentive but not intrusive. The extensive wine list, which includes a large section devoted to English tipples, is a tad pricey but offers many interesting choices.

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence