The Seaside Boarding House

True to its name, this shoreside villa commands a sublime panorama from a bluff overlooking Chesil Beach – on a clear day, you can see Portland cliffs and Devon estuaries from its terrace, and you can hear the tide raking away at the shingle below. A maritime mood defines the dining room too: a classically done-out space full of crisp linen that flutters in the salty breeze, with pictures of sailing ships adorning whitewashed walls. Seafood (of course) primarily reels in the diners. Many open their meal slurping on Portland pearl oysters, dressed with soy, ginger and coriander. Indeed, the kitchen has been hailed for 'simple food done so well', something evident in our starter of grilled sardines, confit tomatoes and aïoli. Mains might see more intricate constructions. The undisputed highlight of our visit was a rich Sicilian-style fish stew, whose fathoms yielded generous chunks of lobster, prawns and sea bass, though a dish of sublimely flaky John Dory, balanced atop green beans was a close second. The dessert selection sang with summery flavours from blackcurrant sorbet to raspberry and almond tart with clotted cream – though there’s much to be said for a winter visit, when inbound storms rattle the window panes and all is cosy within. France claims pole position on the fairly priced wine list. There are also nine bedrooms for those who can’t bear to part with this most beautiful of coastal views.