Opheem

Excellent cooking

There is a genuine feeling of affection radiating from the many readers’ reports we receive for this cutting-edge Indian restaurant. To be sure, it’s an unashamedly smart destination and visitors appreciate the comfortable, softly lit lounge and the dining room’s elegant neutrality as well as the sense of theatre provided by the spectacular open kitchen. Birmingham-born Aktar Islam has been pursuing his own path here since 2018, his culinary style vigorous and imaginative, a mix of aspirant riffs on familiar Indian recipes and stellar British seasonal produce. Once you’ve snagged a reservation expect clever textures, thrilling contrasts and exact spicing. From the palate-awakening shot of cucumber, green chilli and apple juice served with snacks such as an ethereal oyster emulsion with perfectly judged chilli broth and coriander oil to petits fours that might include a pistachio-crumbed madeleine straight out of the oven, the chef’s intricately realised multi-course menus pulse with innovation and flavour. Sublime tandoori sand carrot jumbled with mini lentil pakoras is given added vibrancy with mint and coriander, while other stand-outs range from aloo tuk (pink fir potato with mango and tamarind) to a tantalising slice of tender hogget loin fringed with beautifully flavoured fat and served with its slow-cooked shoulder – made all the more memorable by a subtle hint of heat that lingers gently on the palate. Beyond these anchor points, we were equally delighted by a buttery, flaky just-baked milk bread, and an intriguing ‘After Eight’ chocolate finale involving pine ice cream and mint compôte. Service appears to have thawed since our last visit; the front of house staff and the chefs who delivered dishes to our table were on the ball and warmly welcoming. Drinks impress too. Cocktails blended to match the cuisine are a particular strength, and the wine list – also carefully tailored to complement the spicing– flies you first-class around the world, with by-the-glass choices from £16.

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence

With a minimalist kitchen that looks more like that of a Spanish three-star than an Indian restaurant, Islam’s Jewellery Quarter flagship Opheem is an entirely different proposition to any other Indian restaurant in the UK. The reason for this, Islam says, is that’s he isn’t an Indian chef. “I’m a Brummie,” he proudly declares. While he may have had a bit of a head start on account of his family’s Bangladeshi heritage, he is largely self-trained. Thus, Opheem offers progressive Indian dishes based on Islam’s own research into the cuisine, utilising modern European techniques that are rarely used in other Indian kitchens. Islam’s signature dish of achaari pink fir potatoes with tamarind is a case in point. It sees potatoes water bathed, grilled, put through an espuma gun and deep fried in no less than three different ways (as crisps, pillows, and croutons) to create a stunning plate of food that feels distinct from what is served at top-end Indians in London. The restaurant is best known for its lengthy tasting menus, but keeps things accessible by way of a couple of less involved options including a great value set lunch menu. Launched in 2018 and reconfigured in 2022, Opheem occupies a large site in Birmingham city centre. While the space does feature some Indian objects and design elements, it avoids the clichés of subcontinental restaurant design in favour of a strikingly modern and stylish look. Islam also runs highly-rated Argentine restaurant Pulperia down the road in Brindley Place. In early 2024 Opheem was awarded its second Michelin star, and is one of only two Indian restaurants in the country to have been given the accolade.