The Scallop Shell

This lively family-run venue stays true to the best elements of a treasured British institution. Spread over two levels, it's a slick, upmarket chippy downstairs and a separate, indoor/outdoor upper deck (the Little Scallop) complete with a delightful Mediterranean vibe. Setting the scene is a vintage bathtub filled with ice displaying some of the day’s catch for all to see. We ate in the ground-floor space with its open kitchen, shiny tiling and nautical references – dangling lobster pots, ropes strung across the ceiling. The menu is a mix of chip-shop classics and more inventive restaurant-style dishes, but be sure to check out the blackboard displaying the day’s specials – all based on the freshest fish from British waters. Prawn cocktail and moules marinière are textbook versions, or you could start with a plate of Orkney scallops – cooked to caramelised perfection, topped with fragrant garlic and fresh herb butter served in the shell on a sheet of ‘pretend newspaper’. After that, it’s hard to resist prime North Atlantic cod loin in a crisp, light batter with chunky fresh-cut chips, mushy peas and homemade tartare sauce, but for something different, try half a Start Bay ray wing with salsa verde or monkfish with lemon aïoli. Non-fish options such as spiced chickpea fritters with curry sauce and fennel salad plug any gaps, while desserts focus on classics ranging from sticky toffee pudding (served with a rich caramel sauce) to perfectly bittersweet chocolate mousse. To drink, there’s a decent selection of European wines, alongside beers, ciders and after-dinner libations.

1 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence