Tyddyn Llan

* Following Bryan and Susan Webb's departure in July 2024, Tyddyn LLan is now run by chef Gareth Stevenson (ex-Palé Hall) and his partner Maria. Watch for a new review coming soon. * The stone-built Georgian country house in north Wales, not far from Wrexham, is very handy for a day's wandering in the Berwyn mountains. Bryan and Susan Webb have the seasoned hoteliers' knack of knowing exactly what people expect, which, as one winter report commented, is nothing less than 'a first-rate experience: staff are friendly and welcoming, the place itself is a delight, and the food is exceptional in every way'. 'Numerous and delicious' canapés in the lounge get everybody on-side, before entry to the many-windowed dining-room. There is plenty of country-house refinement to Bryan Webb's cooking, but none of the play-it-safe blandness that often comes with the territory. Instead, fine prime materials produce veal sweetbreads in creamy tagliatelle with morels to start, or perhaps a cut of monkfish on curried lentils. Pedigree meats such as Welsh black beef, Goosnargh duck and local lamb - the last in spring livery with peas, broad beans, artichoke and mint - line up alongside John Dory in crab bisque with leek mash for the main business. Then there are Neal's Yard cheeses in fine fettle, for those prepared to forgo chocolate marquise with caramel ice cream, or a panna cotta fired up with blood-orange and grappa. An unapologetic focus on classic French wines is evident on the extensive list, where quality suits the cooking and glass prices start at £8.50.