Lovage

Lee Smith doesn't mind admitting that he began his career in catering as a washer-up, but the aim was always to cook at his own place. A meteoric trajectory took him to the regional finals of Great British Menu back in 2019, but also to this hugely appealing little restaurant, shoehorned in between two taller stone buildings in the market town of Bakewell. The panelled interior creates a rather sophisticated ambience, and the staff are both welcoming and knowledgeable. A palpable sense of imaginative energy runs through the menu, and even familiar modern classics are productively tweaked and smartly presented. Sea trout cured in blood-orange and fennel comes in a bright pink peppercorn and chilli dressing, or there could be roasted seasonal beetroot with sheep's yoghurt and dukkah. For main course, there might be monkfish curry (Goan-style) with pak choi and Bombay mix, while duck breast is given complex but effective treatment with prunes, kalettes and parsnip purée in a gamey sauce of chocolate and blackberry. Seven-course tasting menus include a vegetarian version, its principal dish perhaps offering roast squash with chestnuts, quince, rainbow chard and black garlic. A chef from the East Midlands is hardly going to stint on Stilton, and Hartington Creamery's version is served as the centrepiece of a cheese plate with stout cake and spiced apricot. Otherwise, look to rhubarb pavlova or cherry soufflé with pistachio ice cream and chocolate sauce. Wines offer some interesting choices across the range.