Chez Vrony

Zermatt’s cult hotelier Daniel Lauber (“Cervo”) calls her “The Queen of Findeln,” and that describes it perfectly: Vrony Cotting-Julen, GaultMillau’s “Hostess of the Year 2022,” is the guests’ favorite at Chez Vrony, perched high above Zermatt—the absolute focal point of the establishment, industrious as a bee and always moving around with a friendly smile. Max Cotting, a successful banker from Zurich, lets his wife take center stage, but discreetly and efficiently pulls the strings behind the scenes. This summer, celebrations took place on Findeln for “100 Years of Chez Vrony.” For once, the sun terrace wasn’t filled with VIPs from around the world (Jeff Bezos, Jodie Foster, Prince William, Robbie Williams & Co.), but with friends and family—and in a mountain village like Zermatt, that circle is surprisingly large. To mark the occasion, the kitchen brigade was bolstered, and the menu offered a culinary journey into the past: old-fashioned Gsottus with an Alpine vinaigrette, Heida white wine soup with Sot-l’y-laisse, Cholera with confited mountain char, and lamb navarin with polenta. Simply wonderful! Head chef Oliver Waldispühl isn’t nearly as famous as the hosts, but he and his team do a remarkably good job. Given the heavy footfall (two lunch services) and the extensive menu, the stress level is high, but the brigade handles it reliably and at a brisk pace. The favorites among the many regulars include a tapas selection to start, featuring air-dried beef from their own cattle, Findler alpine cheese, and house sausage. Other standouts are the Valais Heida fish soup with Alpine zander and bitterling, beef rib-eye teriyaki with pak choi and lemongrass, and the GaultMillau recommendation: braised beef cheek dumplings served with gremolata, mashed potatoes, and crème fraîche. Max Cotting curates the wine list himself. He maintains strong connections with leading Valais vintners such as Marie-Thérèse Chappaz, Valentina Andrei, and Thierry Constantin. Valentina’s Completer is the hidden gem on the list.