Magdalena

Excellent cooking

Is this Fine Dining 2.0? In the fully booked «Magdalena», there are no Michelin-star hunters or gourmet know-it-alls. The modern restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows is filled with diners ready to embrace the new dishes by wunderkind Dominik Hartmann and marvel at how a 100 percent vegetarian kitchen knows almost no limits when it comes to variety and potential for elevation. Hartmann’s stylishly dressed-in-black sneaker-wearing service team is also in great spirits: plates are served at a remarkably brisk pace with clear (and necessary in this vegetarian world) announcements, always accompanied by a friendly smile. That doesn’t change even if you opt for a «Vivi Kola» instead of the wine pairing or the sophisticated non-alcoholic accompaniment at the neighboring table and happily spend the evening that way. Dominik Hartmann and his brilliant deputy Jonathan Pichler (who will launch his own venture at the «Nord» in Lucerne starting winter 2025/2026) only know one tactic: the blitz attack! They dedicate ample time to thrilling starters and win people over with their snacks. The radish roll with kimchi is essentially a familiar favorite, but individual elements like the Korean gochujang mayo are truly surprising. The croustade with grilled green asparagus and «just a touch of lime and burrata» is pure harmony. A little detour to Rome is also on the menu: maritozzi! At Hartmann’s, the classic yeast dough pastry isn’t served with sweet cream as traditional, but savory, stuffed with cheese cream, truffle, and a pear-and-celery vinaigrette. Finished? Of course not! For a second round of snacks, there’s a cucumber ceviche with kaffir lime, a refreshing sour cream and lime mousse with crisp peas, pea broth, and herbs, and above all, an incredible tartlet featuring a cucumber sphere, jalapeño, dill, shiso cress, chervil, and edible flowers. Even the server is taken aback: «Our little masterpiece», she says proudly, as guests fascinatedly pull out their phones. Guests recharge with a piece of «Magdi bread», naturally homemade, made with sourdough and potato skins from the Albula Valley; the whipped butter from Annen Dairy, enlivened with sour cream, yogurt, and salt, and sculpted into a proper butter mound, is simply irresistible. Straight into the menu, attention turns to the leek, which is cooked sous vide in rapeseed oil and miso. While the green stalk may be the star, what’s ultimately decisive at the «Magdalena» is always what lies underneath: white bean cream with lemon, miso mayo, land cress, and wood sorrel. A cool, refreshing broth is poured over it: land cress juice and chive-leek oil. Kohlrabi has its place in a top restaurant too, especially when Chef Dominik handles it. A pan-fried kohlrabi medallion is presented on a dashi flan, served with a velouté of pear, buttermilk, and a hint of wild garlic oil. Naturally, the radish, Hartmann’s signature vegetable, also earns a spot in the spring menu, even in dehydrated form: pan-fried, paired with pickled blackberries, toasted hazelnuts, cicorino rosso, and a radish essence infused with ginger oil. Can it get any better? Absolutely! The sous vide-cooked and seared asparagus from Flaach, ZH, finished with sesame lacquer (!), pistachio crumble, lemon, and a superb beurre blanc made with fermented asparagus juice, is pure harmony—simply outstanding. For the technically challenging main course, Hartmann buys directly from the «PilzChef» in Effretikon, ZH. A hedgehog mushroom is confited in the oven for two hours at 130 degrees and glazed with rosehip lacquer; while a jus of ponzu and lemon oil delivers an extra hit of umami to the meaty fungus. Now it’s «Joni» Pichler’s turn to shine with his spectacular desserts: rhubarb with wheatgrass sorbet (!). Strawberry ragout with lemon verbena glacé. Quark soufflé with grapefruit sorbet. Or perhaps a cheese course in the typical «Magdalena» style? An Albula potato («Aztec Gold») is hollowed out and deep-fried, and the accompanying cheese cream (featuring Schlossberger, aged «Schwyzer», and Après-Soleil) is simply phenomenal.