Gault&Millau — 17
In recent years, Manuela and Walter Klose at the «Gupf» have faced severe tests amid crises and illnesses. It is truly admirable how the family has successfully navigated this demanding period together. The two sons from Walter Klose’s first marriage remain on the kitchen team; as sous-chef alongside his father, Sebastian brings fresh ideas to the table—one can already discern in the menu a somewhat more delicate, youthful style.
Following a warm, rustic opening with baked tempura vegetables served with herb cream, the starter of raw-marinated zander in an onion broth, prepared in ceviche style with fennel variations, strikes a note that is just as refreshing as it is modern. In dialogue with Walter Klose’s outstanding classical technique—such as in a straightforward Tafelspitz with Flädli soup—this creates a pleasing dynamic tension. South African scampi feature a crispy coating of carefully hand-cut pumpkin seed strips, accompanied by pumpkin and cashew creams, pickled pumpkin, pak choi, and a classic beurre blanc, all harmonizing beautifully in both flavor and contemporary aesthetics. Veal head and baked veal head pralines dressed with herb vinaigrette offer another—and excellent—example of classic Klose cuisine, just as does the venison loin wrapped in a bread crust, served with Schupfnudeln, red cabbage, and lingonberries. The entrecôte from the farm’s own Limousin beef boasts first-class quality, framed by comforting classics: risotto with Périgord truffle and braised oxtail—all executed flawlessly.
The dessert from Fabian Klose’s patisserie elegantly concludes this generational menu: almond mousse, apple compote, rum raisins and rum ice cream, crispy phyllo strips, and a wonderful, slightly warm vanilla sauce bring the experience to perfection. Manuela Klose, originally trained as a chef, has returned to the kitchen after a break spent as a warm-hearted hostess, now applying careful oversight and a sharp eye for her guests’ needs. Plans are now underway to renovate and expand the compact kitchen. The future of the «Gupf», it appears, is fortunately secure.