Maison Wenger

Excellent cooking

The small Juran municipality of Le Noirmont has 1,957 inhabitants. Thirteen of them are chefs. They work at the Maison Wenger, the stunning fine-dining restaurant right in the middle of the village. Jérémy Desbraux (18 points, 2 Michelin stars) is the boss in the huge kitchen (now featuring a new “Chef’s Table”!) and pushes the chefs to their limits. In recent months, GaultMillau has visited the Jura three times out of curiosity, naming him “Chef of the Year.” The restaurant is barely recognizable: bright, stylish, meticulously designed down to the last detail. And that out in the middle of nowhere in the Franches-Montagnes, far from any major cities! No problem for Desbraux: “Guests come to us from all over. From Lausanne and Geneva. From Zurich, Basel, and Lucerne.” Gourmet destination Le Noirmont! The tireless Georges Wenger (“Chef of the Year 1997”) laid the foundation. Jérémy Desbraux and Anaëlle Roze continue the success story, bringing energy and fresh ideas. Responsibilities are clearly divided: Jérémy is the boss behind the stove. That he comes from the notoriously tough Crissier culinary school is immediately apparent: all twelve chefs wear white towels and tall toques, just like at Franck Giovannini’s place. Anaëlle leads the eight-member service brigade (including three sommeliers!). She is actually a trained chef who spent five years working every station at Georges Wenger’s. This earns her respect: “The boss lady runs everything!” says head sommelier Antoine Sicard, impressed. The service brigade truly wears black: black suits, ties, no sneakers. Guests dress considerably less elegantly when visiting the Maison Wenger. Jérémy Desbraux has been cooking in Le Noirmont since 2019, and one course always appears on his tasting menu: the surprise egg, “always in new variations,” says Anaëlle Roze. This time, the “Œuf du Noirmont” features “pleurotes” (oyster mushrooms) from Mr. Ben in the Sarine district of Fribourg. Mr. Oppliger, the “egg man” on the outskirts of Le Noirmont, also has a little tip for us home cooks: “Always store eggs with the pointed end facing down so they stay fresh longer.” The chefs step up another gear with the snails served with wild garlic, divine sauce, and picture-perfect bread rolls. Then comes a slice of omble (Arctic char) from nearby Soubey: Desbraux encases the delicate fish in a stunning wheat crust, while lovage flavors the foamy sauce. Extra sauce is available for all courses “for the sake of indulgence.” The sweetbreads are grilled to crispy perfection on a small tableside grill; the velvet-soft interior is caressed by an onion jus. The highlight of the menu: loin, filet mignon, and chop from Sisteron lamb, served in an exciting broth. A dark, not-too-bitter Courroux beer flavors the soup, which guests lap up drop by drop. Grand finale in a magnificent restaurant. “Cheese Man” Luiz Vuillemin proudly presents his “cart” featuring the finest cheeses from Switzerland and the French Jura. Then Jérémy’s brother, Florian Desbraux, makes his appearance. He is the pastry chef at the Maison. Dandelion blossoms and saffron are combined to create a breathtaking dessert that boasts a richness reminiscent of a Château d’Yquem. This is followed by a crisp creation where rhubarb is enveloped in an ultra-fine coating. The wine list is enormous. Especially among Swiss winemakers, the concept is clear: “Simply the best.” “Nothing else is an option for the chef,” says sommelier Antoine Sicard. At the Maison Wenger, they really spare no expense. Four kinds of bread are baked twice daily (!) and brought to the table straight from the oven.