Osteria Enoteca Cuntitt

Zero kilometers? Absolutely. For example, with the fresh pasta tortelli that Federico Palladino serves at the start of the meal at the Cuntitt: His young neighbor and farmer Matteo Roncoroni raises the ovini—meaning lambs and kids—for him and also supplies the freshly laid eggs. Federico handles the rest together with his four chefs (all of whom have been there since day one, making five years now!): He shapes the tortelli with millimeter-perfect precision and tops them with a wonderful potato and Jerusalem artichoke espuma. By now it is clear: Although this restaurant with its picturesque courtyard right in the heart of the village of Castel San Pietro (population 2,225) calls itself a trattoria, that is quite an understatement. Here, in a relaxed setting, you will find hearty, generous Italian cuisine. One of the best in the entire canton! Palladino’s partner, Nicole Selva, does not keep guests waiting long, cheerfully bringing the appetizers to the table: a tartlet with raw yellowtail amberjack (ricciola), marinated peppers, and yuzu mayo. A nearly liquid little egg (ovetto) with guanciale, Sbrinz cheese, and curry. A crisp focaccia with potatoes and chorizo. A plump green olive that is, of course, not an olive: known in the south as a “finta oliva,” it contains very elegantly prepared foie gras. Five house-baked breads are also served, with the Sardinian pane carasau being our favorite. The zero-kilometer principle does not apply if products outside Ticino are simply better. Merchant Paolo Bianchi introduced the chef to the fish farm in Bremgarten. Palladino is thrilled by the rainbow trout and executes it with equal enthusiasm: served with crème fraîche, herb-infused olive oil, caviar, and white turnips (carpione). The scallops also bear a clear signature: saffron, yuzu, bone marrow (!), and shallots. The foie gras comes with a variation of king pears on a Chenin Blanc sauce. Guests can feel it: someone here cooks joyfully from the gut, with a sure hand for unusual yet wonderful combinations. Pasta is a must at the Cuntitt. We have already raved about the tortelli. Alternatives include organic tubetti from the Mancini brand in the Marche region, stuffed with rabbit meat, paired with red beer to add a touch of bitterness to the plate. The “fresh pasta” section is a staple on the menu; the dough is prepared fresh every morning, “with great enthusiasm,” as Palladino puts it. This time around, the ingredients are lobster, nut butter, mussels, and broccoli. For the main course, the chef sticks to a reliable favorite: pigeon breast and thigh, always cooked to a pleasant pink. “Even when squab isn’t on the menu, guests still order it,” Nicole Selva confirms. Among the establishment’s special features is that the most valuable bottles are stored in the elegantly designed cellar and are available for ordering. The Cuntitt also serves as a Krug ambassador. That role is usually reserved for famous restaurants in major cities, but Federico Palladino is a perfect representative. When you order the “menu a mano libera” (five courses, 108 Swiss francs), one dish is always included that pairs perfectly with a glass of Krug.

High quality cooking