Sven Wassmer Memories

Exceptional cuisine

The foodies among the guests in Bad Ragaz are upset. The resort has terminated its current contract with Andreas Caminada, and the «Igniv» will close permanently at the end of January. Remarkably, the concept and design had captured the zeitgeist; «Verve» and «Memories» (by Sven Wassmer) had transformed the spacious wellness resort into a true gourmet destination. The biggest casualty is young chef Joël Ellenberger. He is cooking better than ever at the «Igniv», and the eighteenth Michelin star was within reach. Among the first highlights of his menu is the calf’s head aspic with peas and Périgord truffle, which creates a beautiful contrast between flavorful depth and lightness. Feather-light yet intensely flavored is the cured yellowfin mackerel with ginger and rhubarb, while the slightly bitter red chicory with pickled plum, sour cream, and a vinaigrette occupies a completely different aromatic spectrum. The surprising—or challenging—element here is a phoron spice blend featuring mustard seeds, fennel seeds, black cumin, cumin, and fenugreek. It delivers a bold intensity that evokes the flavor profiles of Asian curries. You must not skip the surprise courses—the chef pulls out all the stops here, such as with the table-smoked scorpionfish accompanied by scallop chips and a relish made from Tropea onions, whose sweet-spicy character pairs beautifully with the dish’s briny marine notes. “I cook the way I like to eat myself,” says Joël Ellenberger, and not everything needs to be perfectly harmonious. Yet there is no doubt that everything tastes exceptional. Take, for example, the quail breast and the slow-braised leg of the small bird, concealed within a thin slice of radish, served alongside an intense jus—a dish that exemplifies top-tier craftsmanship. Or consider the gently poached char wrapped in thinly sliced radish, served with herbs, edamame, and a whey-based beurre blanc: the sauce boasts a velvety texture and a rich, buttery flavor, while the lactic acid from the whey imparts a distinctive “crackle” to it. The chef explains that he has precise visions for what should happen on the palate with each dish. The result is a cuisine with immense entertainment value, and a menu structured with the narrative tension of a great film. The service, overseen by Susi Schneider, is first-rate, and the sommelier station is consistently well-staffed.

A major shake-up at the «Grand Resort»! The «Igniv» is closing, while the Asian «Namun» and the Italian «Olives d'Or» are being completely reimagined. Amidst the turmoil, Sven Wassmer remains steadfast with his «Memories» and the second restaurant «Verve». Unfazed, Tobias Peyerl seamlessly carries on the work of Sebastian Titz here (who has recently moved to Klinik Gut in Fläsch). His Signature Menu opens with a head lettuce panna cotta atop a crisp bean salad in pea broth. Next comes an understated yet refined Bremgarten trout prepared «Bergbäuerinart», served with hemp seed nut butter, root vegetables, and parsley-saffron potatoes. For the main course, Peyerl presents a duo of Swiss Wagyu with wild broccoli and broad beans – the highlight being a praline filled with pulled meat. We also peruse the à la carte menu, where the light Sbrinz potato dumplings with tomatoes, pickled onions, and smoked sour cream impress us greatly. As do the spinach and fresh cheese gyoza with watercress and Sbrinz. For dessert, the ragout of Valais apricots with vanilla parfait, lemon thyme, and fermented almonds tastes excellent. However, the coordination between à la carte and set-menu orders is less than optimal. At this standard, it should never happen that one of two guests has to finish their main course alone.

By the end of January, the restaurant will be closed. The Grand Resort is undergoing renovations; a new, more ambitious Italian restaurant has been announced. A few dishes from the Olives d’Or should remain on the menu: the gamberoni all’aglio, served in a cast-iron skillet. The ravioli del plin with sage butter, dearly loved by regulars, belong just as much to the establishment's fixtures as Chef Enzo from Calabria, who prepares them. A second dish even bears his name: "Vitello tonnato, Enzo's original recipe." It tastes excellent and is also very neatly presented: tender veal (shoulder) from Kalberer butcher shop in Mels, an elegant tuna sauce, radish slices. Nothing more is needed. One would wish for that same simple, clear approach with the tuna carpaccio as well. But the tuna lies beneath an overdose of arugula, capers, and dill. Back to the test kitchen with it. Executive chef Nadine Wächter actively seeks out top producers from the region, doing so quite consistently. For the Italian classic saltimbocca, both the veal cutlet and the raw ham come from the area; we also liked the accompanying risotto and Marsala jus. Even the truffle comes from Bad Ragaz: The two Pyrenean Shepherd dogs, Indy and Taro, sniff it out with surprisingly reliable accuracy. The truffles are shaved over homemade tagliolini or risotto. Attentive service, led by Jana Stieger.