De Groene Lantaarn

Excellent cooking

Nestled in the middle of a Dutch landscape that resembles a painting by an Old Master lies restaurant De Groene Lantaarn. The welcome is warm and considerate, and SVH Master Hostess Cindy Borger is a hostess through and through. Genuinely curious and attentive to all her guests, she also boasts exemplary wine knowledge and a fluid way of explaining it. Here you feel like a true guest, in a relaxed setting with a vibe of “just keep it down-to-earth, that’s already plenty unusual.” SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen prepares high-level gastronomy using vegetables and herbs from his own garden, flour (from grain supplied by a neighboring farmer) from the 17th-century mill standing on the premises, and game and beef from the region. His “biscuit with black mouse-shaped candies” is masterful and has long since become the chef’s signature. Highly recommended: the crispy potato base, soft crème fraîche with just enough chives so the flavor doesn’t overpower, and a thick layer of glossy Ossetra caviar. The North Sea crab salad is served atop a concentrated crab jelly, finished with a cream made from sustainably produced marine plankton and seaweed crisps. Brought to the table by the master himself, who notes that the plankton is even more expensive than caviar. The red mullet fillet arrives on a paper-thin layer of bread crust baked right alongside it. Every bite is a delight. The accompaniment of mini-zucchini from his own vegetable garden pairs perfectly with it. And that’s precisely what Cindy recommends as well. We sample a young dry Weissburgunder from Weingut Karl Pfaffmann, vintage 2023. Refreshingly crisp, aromatic, and not too heavy. Rich in fruit notes: lemon, apple, pear. After a delightful raspberry soufflé with thyme ice cream, raspberry jelly, and fresh raspberries, they simply won’t stop serving us the friandises. No problem, they come in a little box to take home and savor later. Top establishment. Ranks 4th.

Over the past year, SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen and his partner, SVH Master Hostess Cindy Borger, have certainly kept busy. In February, they joined the prestigious culinary club Les Grandes Tables du Monde; in March, Cindy passed her SVH Master Hostess examination; and in May, they took over as the new heads of Restaurant Poortman in Veeningen. Under their guidance, it now serves the same top-tier quality as De Groene Lantaarn, albeit at a slightly more relaxed level. Meanwhile, they continue to deliver the same gastronomic excellence at their charming and inviting restaurant in Staphorst that diners have come to expect from the couple over the years. We are warmly welcomed at the entrance and seated at a lovely table in the generously proportioned dining room. The decor is chic, featuring tables dressed with crisp white skirts and stylishly topped with cowhide runners. The atmosphere is colorful and lively, partly thanks to skateboards—Jarno’s personal hobby—which have been repurposed into side tables and wall art. Last but not least: the warm, genuine, and unpretentious hospitality extended by Cindy and her team. Shortly after being seated, our host and sommelier Pieter-Jan Kruithof (yes, the son of...) presents us with a stunning English sparkling wine, a Blanc de Blancs from Gusbourne in Sussex. Next, the amuse-bouches follow one another in rapid succession, each more delightful than the last. The beef tartare with its frothy jalapeño foam instantly wins us over. We opt for the four-course menu and begin with one of Jarno’s signatures: “beschuit met zwarte muisjes” (a traditional Dutch treat). Here, it takes the form of a crispy potato rösti crowned with creamy chive crème and a generous dollop of caviar. Cindy pairs it with a Fino from the Colosia estate in El Puerto de Santa María. Simply delightful. The portion of pikeperch, served with stuffed morels, double-shelled peas, both caramelized and raw endive, and a rich red wine jus, is cooked to absolute perfection. The same goes for the succulent local venison loin, for which we highly recommend licking the accompanying pumpkin seed praline clean with your fingers. After all, this is exactly the kind of relaxed experience you get with Jarno and Cindy. This entire course is paired with a beautifully seductive bottle of Fosse-Sèche Arcane by Adrien and Guillaume Pire. A special mention goes to the elegant silver place settings, where guests can freely choose their cutlery, including an abundance of spoons perfectly suited for savoring every last drop of sauce. As a parting gift, we receive a small bag of house-milled flour so we can recreate “Jarno’s pancakes” at home. With a convincing leap of seven spots, the restaurant has climbed to third place in this guide’s Top 10.

SVH's master chef Jarno Eggen and his partner, hostess and sommelier Cindy Borger, have succeeded in creating a distinctive gastronomic paradise in the Overijssel town of Staphorst. We feel as though we are inside a living painting by an old Dutch master, with views of their mill where grain for homemade bread and cookies is ground, free-roaming chickens, grazing cows, open countryside, and everything radiating incredible tranquility. And that’s not even mentioning the beautiful interior where nothing has been left to chance. Immaculate white linen on the tables, exquisitely beautiful crockery, sparkling glassware, and gleaming cutlery. The kitchen follows French tradition and offers, alongside a multi-course menu – which can also be ordered completely vegetarian – and a 'big experience' menu featuring the ten best dishes of the moment, modest à la carte choices. The wine list is like a bible and preaches predominantly French labels. With the aperitif, a robust Chardonnay Saint Véran, we are served four exciting amuse-bouches, one of which is an artfully crafted dome of firm green apple foam with herring and elegant fresh acidity that sharpens the taste buds. The first course of hamachi with yuzu, plankton, olive oil, and cornflowers is a visual treat. The fish melts on the tongue, and light acidity blends with restrained sweetness and the creaminess of the oil. The expressive Riesling from Mosel elevates the dish to an even higher level. This is followed by a rich goose liver terrine with liquorice jelly, tuiles, and meringue, plus pickled cherries. A pure taste sensation. Next comes fillet of local roe deer with porcini bread, pomegranate, and pumpkin seed praline. The game is drizzled with a powerful tarragon jus and oil. This calls for vibrant fruit in the glass, and the Artadi Viñas de Gain 2019 fully meets expectations. The pace of service is perfect, there is calm and harmony, and the knowledge of wine and food is impeccable. Everything breathes pure professionalism. De Groene Lantaarn takes its place in the Top 10 of Lekker. Enters at position 10.

Since the arrival of SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen and his partner, hostess and sommelier Cindy Borger, Staphorst can boast a gastronomic place to be. De Groene Lantaarn, housed in a traditional hall-house farmhouse, sits among the meadows just outside the village center. The chef personally welcomes us at the front door of his beautiful restaurant. The hostesses are impeccably dressed in cobalt blue dresses, white sneakers, and red lipstick, and they are all equally friendly and enthusiastic. Nothing escapes Cindy's professional eye; she pays attention to the smallest details. The decor is rustic, tables set with spotless white linen, the crockery is breathtakingly beautiful, as is the glassware, and you help yourself to cutlery from a silver Christofle egg. Alongside à la carte selections, there are several tasting menus, and the wine album showcases a beautiful collection of labels, including open bottles and wines by the glass. Over the course of a cocktail made with cava, basil, passion fruit, and ginger, the table fills with amuse-bouches including a warm cream puff with aged sheep's cheese from Vreugdehoeve, venison and cinnamon broth, crispy potato with mackerel and seaweed, and a spinach and anchovy tartelette. Each one a visual treat and a flavor explosion—what a welcome! The classic liver terrine with cognac and madeira, airy licorice, and pickled cherries could easily earn the title of signature dish in our view. Its elegance leaves us completely spellbound. In the glass, a Riesling Auslese from Georg Gustav Huff. Next come oysters with mushroom and verbena, paired with a dry Cabernet Blanc from the Hauer estate, beautifully harmonized. The sea bass with goat cheese, zucchini, tomato, artichoke, and thyme and rosemary sauce is not only a feast for the eyes but cooked to perfection. Juicy venison follows, served with beetroot, pomegranate, pumpkin seeds, and double-peeled peas. The poured wine, a Cairanne from Brunel de la Gardina in the Rhône Valley, once again pairs perfectly. The extensive cheese list briefly tempts us, but we ultimately choose something sweet: strawberry with peppermint and lightly sweetened whipped cream, accompanied by a glass of Taittinger Champagne Nocturne à Reims. De Groene Lantaarn makes it into the Top-10 of this guide. At position 0.

SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen and hostess-sommelier Cindy Borger continue to surpass themselves. Their brand-new venue in Staphorst is bustling, the dining rooms are bursting at the seams, the kitchen boasts a perfectly coordinated team, and the young service staff is both swift and highly professional. And what an entrance! Our short walk from the parking lot takes us past Eggen’s latest acquisition, an imposing eight-sided thatched corn mill dating back to 1836, which is bathed in green uplighting come evening. Speaking of welcome: right upon entering, the chef launches an amuse-bouche offensive, once again underscoring why his kitchen belongs among the gastronomic elite of our country; lickpot with paper-thin toast; potato crisp net with beef tartare and jalapeño; sashimi with kohlrabi and wakame; cheese basket with ham; prawn crackers with Dutch shrimp and tzatziki; robust roe deer broth with cinnamon. Excellent amuses, rich in flavor, and truly appetite-stimulating. We then begin with a classic foie gras pâté. Two finger-thick slices, prepared with cognac and Madeira and served with a liquorice glaze, pickled cherry gel, and liquorice macarons. Delicious! Borger pairs it with a beautiful Rheinhessian Huxelrebe Auslese from Georg Gustav Huff. Another home run is the glass of spicy Gewürztraminer (Gustave Lorentz) accompanying the ‘filet américain’ of beef tenderloin. Smoothly sliced meat, enriched with piquant bell pepper, chopped gherkins, and red onion. Also excellent is the pan-fried turbot with foie gras, cauliflower, popped quinoa, and spice jus. And Anjou pigeon: a juicy breast alongside tender loins and confit thighs. Served with apple, caramelized endive, a small jug of pigeon jus with cognac, and glasses of fruity Limburg Merlot (De Belaeving). De Groene Lantaarn is of impeccable class.

SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen and his partner, hostess and sommelier Cindy Borger, have opened a beautiful restaurant in the picturesque town of Staphorst after leaving Zuidwolde. An impressive grain mill dating back to 1854 flanks the property, which enjoys a rural setting and a lovely garden. Jarno prefers cooking with produce from his own kitchen garden: 100% organically grown, ranging from flowers and herbs to edible plants and fresh fruit. The surrounding countryside also yields wonderful local ingredients such as game, dairy, honey, and mushrooms. However, he does not limit himself to these alone. His cuisine incorporates influences from around the world. Quality is paramount. While rooted in classic techniques, Jarno gives each dish a contemporary twist. Every plate showcases the chef's craftsmanship and looks stunning. Cindy thoughtfully pairs suitable wines with each course and equally enjoys guiding guests through the extensive wine list. The restaurant team is warm and attentive, working at a highly professional level. A top restaurant!

An 1854 grain mill flanks the Staphorst location of De Groene Lantaarn. In their new establishment, owner-chef Jarno Eggen and hostess Cindy Borger can further refine their talents. The kitchen gives the chef plenty of room to let his creativity run free. Every dish is beautifully balanced and demonstrates Jarno’s craftsmanship. Exciting and delicious is the goose liver terrine with light licorice and cherries. What a wonderful combination! A glass of Huxelrebe Auslese by Gustav Huff, 2018 complements it perfectly. The French wine that follows, Verget du Sud from the Côtes de Lubéron, also pairs beautifully with the cod wrapped in locally smoked bacon. It is served with a Japanese-inspired beurre blanc and beetroot sauce, alongside a cod-skin krupuk and fresh green herbs. The main course is roasted beef fillet in its own jus, presented with a beautiful garnish of savoy cabbage and mushroom mousse. A morel stuffed with mashed potatoes sits beside a slice of beetroot. Cindy pours a 2017 Cabernet Franc from Puydeval Jeff Carrel. After the dessert amuse—sorrel ice cream, yuzu granita, almond cream, and paper-thin slices of raw green beans—the dessert course arrives: poached peach pieces with yogurt ice cream, red fruit jelly, and fresh raspberries. A refreshing Bricco Riella Moscato d’Asti adds a sweet finish. For cheese, De Groene Lantaarn offers a choice of no fewer than sixteen varieties, which you mark on a tasting card. Accompanied by rice, apple syrup, honey, and raisin bread with pepper. The wine: a port-style Greek Mavrodaphne from 2009. A fine restaurant. Rises 9 places to number 15.

At the end of May 2019, this restaurant will leave Drenthe as owners Cindy Borger and SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen move to a new location in Staphorst (Overijssel). Until then, guests can still indulge in this beautiful Saxon farmhouse. Afterwards, they will enchant Overijssel under the same name and with the same ambitious team. At the old address, we allow ourselves to be overwhelmed one last time by amuse-bouche combinations such as liquorice with goose liver and passion fruit, squid with olive and jalapeño, ham with cheese, mackerel with pepper, and pork with cucumber. And a delicious lobster bisque. Wonderful flavors, a fantastic start to the dinner. Next comes beef shoulder and goose liver with mushrooms and dashi vinegar. All components are presented stacked in that exact order and sprinkled with porcini powder. Delicious. It’s a pity that the accompanying white wine from Veneto does not harmonize perfectly. Then comes the pièce de résistance: excellently cooked Anjou squab – the leg confited separately – served with endive preparations, sheep’s cheese, and house jus. Beautiful in its simplicity, a dish that is flawless in every way, especially regarding the flavors. Cindy pours a South French Pinot Noir from winemaker Jeff Carrel Puydeval, 2016, to accompany it. On the other plate, beef cheek with pepper, tomato, artichoke, eggplant, and basil vinaigrette. The meat is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, paired with a wonderfully rich cheese risotto. A lovely dish that forms a perfect wine-and-food pairing with an Austrian Blaufränkisch from Burgenland by Uwe Schiefer, 2016. Finally, a small cake with poached peach and yogurt. Delicious, but the promised pistachio is missing. Despite this, we are thoroughly satisfied. The Green Lantern rises to 24.

Tucked away among the greenery, we discover the culinary haven of SVH Master Chef Jarno Eggen and his partner Cindy Borger in a beautiful Saxon farmhouse on the outskirts of the municipality. They blend warm Drenthe hospitality with exceptional culinary standards. The restaurant offers ample spacing between tables and a lovely rear terrace overlooking the vegetable garden. From the surprising sour herring foam with apple slices (the first amuse) to the equally impressive dessert of sorrel ice cream with apple granita, almond cream, basil, and slivers of raw snap peas (!), everything is of top quality. The young, all-female service team is friendly, attentive, and misses nothing. Hostess Cindy thoughtfully curates the wine pairing with delightful selections. Following amuse-bouches such as a licorice macaron with goose liver mousse and a touch of passion fruit, we begin with gently poached veal tongue accompanied by goose liver and a fresh salad of apple, endive, and a bright elderflower vinaigrette. Cindy pairs it with a Schloss Vollräs Kabinett Feinherb (2013) from the Rheingau. Next comes an equally delicious seasonal dish of Zuidwolde asparagus served with egg yolk, green asparagus, double-shelled garden beans, and cauliflower slices. Paired with an Alsace Pinot Blanc Klevner by Jean-Paul Ecklé. The intermezzo features cod with cellar-cured pork belly, white wine sauce, and ponzu. With the fish roasted and the cured pork smoked for eight weeks, we sip a smooth Tuscan Chianti Classico (Castell’in Villa) as a bridge between the two. Simply superb! The Saint-Julien 2011 from Château Talbot steals the show as the perfect accompaniment to the beefsteak served with asparagus, cauliflower, potato salad, porcini foam, and house jus. What a flawless pairing! De Groene Lantaarn ranks as the best restaurant in Drenthe. It climbs two spots to number 25.