Lekker500 — Top 500
Located on the Ringvaart canal in Lisserbroek is Het Oude Dykhuys, the restaurant of owner and chef Alfred van Dijk. The interior looks smart and well-kept, featuring a patterned brick floor, a white ceiling with spotlights, dark grey curtains, and artificial flowers in vases. The tables are classically set with linen, a candle, and a single flower. The side terrace is enclosed and equipped with large parasols and planters, making it a lovely spot in good weather. The kitchen is French with international influences, with Van Dijk working with seasonal regional produce. The menu offers both chef's menus and à la carte dishes, complemented by a wine pairing. We start with a glass of Mistinguett Cava from Penedès, which has fine bubbles. An amuse-bouche of wasabi panna cotta with carrot ice cream and fermented carrot cream follows. Small, but particularly successful. The starter opens with pickled salmon tartare served with sweet and sour vegetables, yuzu cream, a crispy tuile, and herring roe. Fresh, although the aroma of brine dominates and the yuzu remains too subtle. The duck liver and leg pâté with grapes, orange, agave syrup, and brioche also falls somewhat short; the strong liver flavor takes over. The accompanying Radford Dale Vinum Chardonnay 2022 from South Africa is pleasant on its own, but does not save the dish. The main course brings lamb rack with asparagus, broad beans, and thyme jus, a beautiful dish where the tender meat truly shines. The roasted mullet fillet with asparagus, morels, and white wine sauce boasts a fine doneness, but the sauce is too watery and the morels are underwhelming. For dessert, a creation appears featuring cinnamon chiboust, cherry sorbet, beetroot jelly, and kriek beer espuma. Bold in presentation, yet exceptionally flavorful. We conclude with an espresso and small pastries. Service is overseen by maître-sommelier Daan Kruik. He is enthusiastic and happy to talk about wine. The young kitchen brigade could use a bit more dynamism, which would elevate the experience even further. Het Oude Dykhuys is a charmingly situated restaurant serving classic French cuisine. A delightful spot. Just needs a few finishing touches now.