Lekker500 — 92
In the completely renovated lower floor of the former municipal office in Linschoten, owner-chef Sander Spruijt and hostess Anne Hövels continue their journey toward the top. The space has been expanded with an outdoor terrace, but the low ceiling means the acoustics are less than ideal. However, what’s served is fantastic: we taste dishes that almost knock us off our chairs. It begins with four delightful amuse-bouches, followed by memorable starters. Such as paper-thin sliced scallop with green curry, cauliflower rosettes, pandan, and parsley: sim-ply de-li-cious! The other plate is equally beautiful: raw sea bass prepared as ceviche and presented with carrot, mussel, and vadouvan. And both feature lovely acidity. Clear case: calculated flavors and textures here, from a kitchen operating at a star level, served by well-dressed, highly competent ladies. We drink Soave Capitel Croce with it (Anselmi, 2019), not so much because we insisted on that choice, but because it’s practically the only affordable wine (well, €42.50!) available. To our complete satisfaction, by the way, that Italian. The main courses bring us back down to earth. Tasty, but a bit more 'ordinary' than the starters. The dry-aged (45 days) Wagyu beef with artichoke, Roseval potatoes, aubergine, and white onion is delicious, albeit very modestly portioned, accompanied by a wonderful jus in a small jug that thankfully stays on the table. Beside it, the Barbary duck, pan-fried on the fat edge, served with pak choi, lapsang souchong, goji berries, and radish. Perfectly cooked, tasting of, uh, duck breast. Fortunately, there’s also a small jug of deeply reduced sauce alongside it. Finally, tasty local cheeses. De Burgemeester remains a sympathetic, refined, and well-priced restaurant in the heart of a village where parking is virtually impossible.