Lekker500 — Top 500
In the village center of Laren, on the busy Brink, chef Agus Hermawan serves authentic Indonesian cuisine. Ron Blaauw conceived the concept, aiming to make Indonesian cuisine sexy again. And it has certainly succeeded. The restaurant is packed with food lovers night after night. The dining room is a feast for the eyes, boasting a spacious table arrangement, comfortably upholstered chairs, subtle Eastern touches, wooden flooring, and beautifully adorned walls. Alongside various rice tables, guests can also dine à la carte. From Joerg Geiger, we select an alcohol-free ‘prisecco’ offering notes of apple, pear, herbs, and spices. We decide to order à la carte and choose four dishes. To our surprise, they are all brought to the table together shortly after ordering. Two are hot and two are cold. That was unexpected. It would have been preferable to briefly discuss the pacing beforehand. Anyway. We begin with ikan dabu, a kingfish tartare with soy, tapioca, miso, ginger cream, and crispy emping. It is beautifully balanced in flavor and delightful alongside the crunchy emping. Next comes kepiting lunak, soft-shell crab fried in tempura batter with steamed vegetables, green sambal, and a generous pour of candlenut-coconut cream. A formidable dish. Udung laut peteh presents steamed langoustines with plenty of stir-fried pak choi and petai bean sauce. Finally, pan-fried foie gras, now cooled to lukewarm, served with roti perata (Singaporean pancakes) and, we no longer find it surprising, yet another substantial portion of Betawi sauce. With two service shifts per evening, we easily stay within the allotted time and can still savor a good coffee accompanied by traditional spekkoek. When dining à la carte here, it is highly recommended to specify that you prefer your courses served sequentially rather than all at once.