Restaurant Lagom

Just for its location on the old harbor of Harderwijk, this intimate seafood restaurant in a monumental building is worth a visit. But we would be shortchanging the exceptional cuisine of owner and head chef Hugo Hond and chef Peele Koops if we stopped there. After all, they cook here in a truly beautiful and imaginative way. The name 'Lagom' is Swedish for 'just right'. The warm interior and the lovely terrace by the water give you a welcoming and cozy feeling. The ladies of the black brigade, led by sommelier Xandra van Deuven, also contribute to this. There is a chef's menu ranging from two to six courses. The wine list is modest, and the selection is limited to European labels. To start, a beautifully presented sea bass ceviche with mango, slightly overpowering yuzu cream, bonito flakes, puffed quinoa, and a vinaigrette made with coconut milk. Genius is the skrei gently cooked under a heat lamp and then lightly charred, finished with mackerel salad, crispy fish skin, kale-sushi vinegar vinaigrette, and red pepper foam. The only dish without fish is tender sous-vide oxtail with shavings of Nagelhout cheese, served on endive salad with dried blood orange. A feast for the taste buds. The chefs at Lagom are clearly following the trend of putting more vegetables on the plate and want to reflect that in the dessert as well. The parsnip, served like a kind of panna cotta, combined with paper-thin sugar bread crisp, green apple spheres, beurre noisette and almond milk ice cream, is heavenly in flavor. The dishes are each little paintings on the plate, though a bit more variation in presentation would be desirable. It's just the small details on the icing, because otherwise Lagom is not just 'just right', but more than that! Welcome to Lekker.

Lagom stands for the Swedish philosophical concept of "exactly in balance". This certainly applies to the cooking style of chef Peele Koops, who, drawing on his classical background, combines flavors and textures into dishes that one by one are 'exactly ...