GEM.

Excellent cooking

SVH Master Chef Soenil Bahadoer has traded his restaurant De Lindehof in Nuenen for the monumental gate building of the 14th-century Castle Gemert. His entire team has relocated with him to this stunning new venue, which is fabulously designed in a completely contemporary style. Soenil’s cooking style remains unchanged: French cuisine with Hindu-Indian and Surinamese influences. The welcome takes place in the large vegetable garden opposite the castle, where we enjoy a spice-infused tea and a small amuse-bouche of mixed greens, cherry blossom, nasturtium, and yuzu. Once inside, we savor signature amuses such as a corn popcorn crisp with a red curry dip featuring sesame and lime. In the glass is a Billecart-Salmon rosé champagne, which we later see reflected on the bill with a shockingly high charge. It would be considerate to alert guests to this when presenting it. Sous-chef Rowin Geurts quickly brings out the first course: a glazed portion of turbot served with bok choy, sweet basil, and shrimp pakoras, alongside thinly sliced radish and coconut-marsala sauce. A beautifully plated dish showcasing exceptional refinement across its flavor profile. Sommelier Amit Singh pairs it with an elegant, refreshing Laurenz V. Kamptal Reserve Grüner Veltliner. The centerpiece is lamb chop, lightly seared and briefly grilled, served with a medina sauce (a North African spice blend) garnished with various types of garlic harvested from their own extensive vegetable garden. Accompanying it is braised lamb neck arranged in a ring of eggplant cream. On a separate plate sits a dish from Soenil’s mother: a pita bread roll filled with braised leg of lamb and marsala, spices, pickled vegetables, and tomato chutney. We can easily guess where Soenil inherited his culinary talent. Next comes a foie gras terrine with macadamia cream and crumble, white strawberries infused with elderflower syrup, and a heart-shaped strawberry mousse seasoned with various spices, filled with jelly and pink peppercorns. It simply couldn’t be more beautiful. The kitchen brigade operates impeccably, and the wines are thoroughly explained. Everything here clicks into place perfectly. It goes without saying that a well-stocked wallet is essential. It secures a spot in the Top 10 at number 10.

According to his own account, Chef Soenil Bahadoer saw no growth opportunities at his previous location in Nuenen and felt he had hit his limit in many respects. Now that we see him working at GEM., we better understand what he was looking for and found in Gemert. That's all there is to it...