Restaurant 1397

Once again, glowing reviews for Chef Torben Bouterse, who, along with his team, holds Dutch cuisine high on their banner and infuses it with his own flair. Owner Frans Hazen’s Restaurant 1397 is part of the historic Grand Hotel and Résidence De Draak, named after the year the building already secured its future as a city inn. The St. Maarten Hall (the oldest section of the monumental building) is a genuine eye-catcher as a dining room, featuring a large dragon painting, an illustrated world map on the ceiling, chandeliers, and artwork on the walls. Torben’s roots lie in Zeeland, which is clearly reflected in his dishes featuring fish, crustaceans, and shellfish. Vegetables also play a prominent role in his menu. Guests can dine à la carte or choose from various set menus, including lunch on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday. As an aperitif, host and accomplished sommelier Walter Lopez Gomez serves a non-alcoholic Sparkling Inspiration 4.7 from Manufaktur Jörg Geiger. Elegant and fresh. On a large matte white plate arrives a refined octopus dish seasoned with smoked paprika powder, finished with dollops of avocado cream and yuzu. Pure and delicate in flavor, with minimal salt usage, as Torben serves as an ambassador for the Kidney Foundation and demonstrates that less can indeed be more. Neatly presented is the softly creamy canapé of organic duck liver with pineapple and passion fruit mousse, paired with a spicy Enate Gewürztraminer. A golden duo. The highlight of the evening is Anjou pigeon fillet roasted on the carcass, with the leg in a crispy coating, served alongside marinated artichoke, a rich silky cream, San Marzano tomato, and a robust poultry jus enriched with cumin. We’ll be back!

Owner Frans Hazen has his business in excellent shape at Grand Hotel De Draak, located in the historic center of Bergen op Zoom. Restaurant 1397 is part of this oldest hospitality establishment in the Netherlands, and just the grandeur of the setting is worth a visit. But we would do a disservice to the gastronomic standard of chef Torben Bouterse and his young, ambitious team if we stopped there, because tasting his work is an absolute treat. In a brand-new kitchen equipped with every sustainable convenience, refined and innovative cooking takes place using predominantly local seasonal ingredients. Torben’s Zeeland roots are evident in his wide array of fish, crustacean, and shellfish dishes, and he does not shy away from regularly adding an Asian touch. The task of pouring suitable wines to accompany them falls to the passionate sommelier Walter Lopez Gomez, born and raised in Mexico. Rest assured, his selections are surprising and delightful, which is especially commendable given the prices charged for the wine. With a glass of Crémant d’Alsace from Domaine Kientzler, we are served welcome bites such as batter-fried lukewarm cauliflower with curry mayonnaise and homemade joppiesaus. Bravo for the perfectly cooked lobster with a lovely firm texture beneath a paper-thin, translucent espresso glaze, surrounded by a sweet-and-sour foamy sauerkraut beurre blanc. Served on stunningly elegant modern crockery. Just as impressive is the veal escalope with XO sauce and a quenelle of cauliflower purée, accompanied by separately served lightly roasted little gem lettuce and potato crisps. A restaurant to keep an eye on. The Top-100 is within reach.

The name 1397 refers to the year Grand Hotel De Draak, home to the restaurant, was already confirmed as a hospitality establishment. The Dutch royal family visited regularly, which is why the hotel bears the coat of arms of a court supplier. Energetic owners Frans and Trix Hazen are still hard at work every day running 'De Draak', even though they have long passed retirement age. Born in Zeeland, Chef Torben Bouterse prepares classical cuisine with Asian influences here. Zeeland fish, crustaceans and shellfish – not surprisingly – play a leading role. Sous-chef Christiaan Veldman, chef de partie Stefan Schipper, and chocolatier Esther Hazen complete the kitchen team. The dining room is truly a feast for the eyes. A high beamed ceiling, striking chandeliers, a sandstone fireplace, and carefully set tables with beautiful crockery, glassware, and cutlery make it a pleasure to dine here. Amiable host and registered sommelier Guus van Dijk welcomes us and leads us to our table. Soon, delicious bread with farmhouse butter arrives. Belly pork is served with octopus, pimentón, pommes pont neuf, or thick, delicious fries that are creamy inside and crispy outside, along with – very refined – salted lemon. What a wonderful starter. This is followed by perfectly cooked plaice with lardo, artichoke, and anchovy. From the cheese workshop comes a generous selection of cheeses accompanied by moist carrot cake, apple syrup, and tuttifrutti. Life is good in the Brabant countryside. And especially at 1397.

Hotel De Draak – the oldest inn in the Netherlands – has recently been awarded the shield of Royal Supplier, and this historical location in the heart of Bergen op Zoom owes that distinction partly to the visits paid by the Dutch Royal Family over the years. The young, on-site Restaurant 1397, named after the inn’s founding year of 1397, has not yet seen a royal visit, but for us it is more than ‘royal’ enough. Talented chef Torben Bouterse is making quite a name for himself here alongside restaurant manager Imad Khalfioui and sommelier Guus van Dijk. The beautiful dining room with its high-beamed ceiling, colossal chandelier, and sandstone fireplace remains the culinary heart of Restaurant 1397, but we are dining on the terrace. Beneath large parasols at tables dressed in white linen, situated at the Grote Markt with its historic facades, the church tower with its carillon, and the monumental town hall. After amuse-bouches of watermelon with tamari soy sauce and bonito flakes, followed by the locally renowned cauliflower kibbeling with Joppiesaus, we sample tomato preparations featuring ginger, za’atar, and a clear ‘draining liquid’ from gazpacho. Paired with glasses of yellow-white Vacqueyras Perrin 2019, crafted from grapes such as bourboulenc, clairette, and white grenache. Lovely! This is followed by red mullet with miso, bok choy, and kaffir lime, and a memorable main course of pork belly glazed with XO sauce, served with pommes soufflées and Royal Belgian Caviar. Bouterse is an inventive native of Zeeland who plays deftly with flavors and textures. Just like in the dessert of runner beans marinated in sugar water, which, combined with elderflower, crème crue, and cucumber, takes on a crisp, almost rhubarb-like flavor.

Hotel De Draak, situated on the beautiful Grote Markt of Bergen op Zoom, has closed its 'Hemingway' restaurant and instead opened 'Restaurant 1397' in the main building. Named after the founding year of the original inn. A brilliant move, as the ambiance is splendid and chef Torben Bouterse, maître Imad Khalfioui, and veteran sommelier Guus van Dijk are solid pillars; with a team like that, you can win the war. We see tables set with white linens (adorned with fresh flower arrangements) alongside sturdy furniture, high beams and crossbeams featuring a colossal chandelier, a sandstone fireplace with an altarpiece of Saint Martin above it, paintings, tapestries, porcelain, tin, and marble. Everything is impeccably maintained and perfectly lit. The amuse-bouches are impressive: a macaron made of clear gazpacho with avocado cream, a fresh oyster dish where the chef, a true master, pairs it with Nam Kee vinaigrette and celeriac foam, and gently cooked kohlrabi with green herb ice cream. And, very cleverly, cauliflower kibbeling with popi sauce. The tone is set: excellent and modern cooking is served here. Followed by thinly sliced beetroot on raw cream and aceto dressing, ray wing on spinach with a delicious onion dashi sauce, and various veal preparations – filet, sweetbread, tongue bitterballs, and cheek meat. In the glass: a red Bordeaux blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes. Finally, a heart-stealing combination of mango, lime ice cream, grated yogurt, and warm chocolate poured over at the table. Top class!