D'O

Excellent cooking

Davide Oldani holds court in San Pietro all’Olmo with the “historic” D’O (founded in 2003) and the more recent Olmo, transforming this Milanese suburban hamlet into a beacon of constantly evolving chef-driven cuisine. The approach is naturally well-tested, and the results are increasingly convincing, whether in tributes to master Gualtiero Marchesi served as amuse-bouches or in evolving classics like the caramelized onion reimagined as a “crumble.” There is also the risotto, of which Oldani is a “prophet,” featuring Mantuan pumpkin, quince mustard, Saronno amaretti, and, to top it off, a generous shaving of superb truffle. Perfection peaks with a portion of meagre cooked in seaweed, accompanied by fennel cream, Taggiasca olives, hydroponic tomato, and citron salad. Indulgent touches abound, alongside artisanal breads prepared at the “third brother” in Piazza della Chiesa—namely, the Next D’Oor lab. Service timing is flawless for the lunch shift, set within a venue suffused with signature design and contemporary style. Four tasting menus are available (starting from €170), with the option to select three dishes for weekday lunches at €115.