42

High quality cooking

Opening 42 was a bold move, yet a much-needed one. Until now, Esztergom had rarely excelled in fine dining, and even among other eateries, outstanding options were scarce. The restaurant’s border-town location draws plenty of Slovak guests, and it can be said without exaggeration that it would hold its own anywhere in the world. Behind its operation stands a clear, ambitious vision: the concept of Sándor Varga, realised in tandem with the elegant boutique hotel Room42. The restaurant is impossible to miss: keep an eye out for the striking glass cube jutting out from the dignified building. Open only for dinner, the interior seems tailor-made for this time of day. Leaving behind the Baroque and Classicist façades of Széchenyi Square, a different world beckons as you step inside. Subtle lighting and dusky hues dominate; marble, mirrors, and inlaid wood create a unique, harmonious milieu. Meticulous attention to detail radiates, yet most captivating of all are the custom-designed tableware – eye-catching works of art in themselves. Not for the first time are we visiting, and it is a gratifying touch that both the staff and manager recall us from our earlier visit and welcome us back. The kitchen is now led by young talent Levente Koppány, who maintains the high standards in both presentation and flavour. Guests may choose between a meat or vegetarian tasting menu, inspired by journeys the chef took together with the owner. The dinner opens theatrically: atop the table rests a globe, whose lifted lid unveils the Esztergom Basilica. The opening course, Gillardeau oysters with black tea kombucha and samphire, immediately signals that something extraordinary is underway. The chef’s mastery extends to fish and desserts alike. Unforgettable is the Danube salmon, surprisingly a freshwater species: served with Kristal caviar and a delicate dill butter sauce, a dish honed to perfection over time. The rhubarb-and-zabaione pavlova is equally delectable. Such is the allure of 42 that it justifies a trip to Esztergom on its own.