VIRTU

Two showpieces in a single landmark. The 143-metre-high MOL Campus heralds Budapest’s first true skyscraper – and towering above the city, on the 28th floor, an equally striking restaurant awaits. A scenic lift whisks guests to the dining room where the very notion of panorama takes on a new meaning. The interior lives up to the location. Lush greenery cascades from the ceiling and living walls soften the space. Among the elegantly dressed tables are more intimate spots, though the full glory of the view is best savoured beside the glass. The gleaming curved bar is itself a visual statement with a stupendous cocktail selection and a charming gesture whereby the bartenders will conjure a bespoke creation from your favourite ingredients. The wine list is neatly segmented, with nearly twenty options by the glass, while the sparkling selection is nothing short of spectacular – Hungarian bottles, fourteen magnums, and twenty-five champagnes. At the helm is Levente Lendvai, one of his generation’s outstanding talents. His menu speaks in a distinctive, whimsical voice: “green plates”, “dreamy romaine lettuce”, fish “from the Danube to the sea” and, in a rare twist for a fine-dining setting, a sterling ice-cream selection. Since its early explorations, the kitchen’s identity has matured into a vivid tableau of innovative Hungarian and Austro-Hungarian cooking, graced by luxury ingredients sourced worldwide – Wagyu steaks or Piedmont hazelnut ice cream with caviar. The appeal here lies in the bliss of indulging in rustic favourites in rarefied surroundings: Palóc beef goulash, Transylvanian aubergine spread, or the playfully titled “Homage to the Pig”, featuring csabai sausage stuffed pork loin and cheek with Hungarian ratatouille. An inspired flourish is the stuffed cabbage using lobster and prawns. Signature dishes include foie gras with Tokaji aszú and aunty's brioche; beef tenderloin supremely partnered by truffled mashed potato and Sichuan sauce; and the “Somlói Virtu”, now the restaurant’s iconic dessert. The first visit to Virtu may be for the views, but it is the unforgettable flavours, the scintillant plating, and the heartfelt hospitality that will tempt you back.