The story
Hirsch Genusshandwerk is a village inn at Monbachstraße 47 in Monakam, part of Bad Liebenzell, and its seasonal kitchen appears in the Michelin Guide as Recommended for 2026. Andreas Sondej cooks here, and the family runs its own distillery in a barn built for the purpose.
The short menu changes every four weeks, and a vegetarian menu runs alongside it. Sondej works alone in the kitchen and prints his producers first. Herbs, fruit and vegetables come from the inn's own garden, while Opa Knapp supplies potatoes, beets and apples. Nothing is staged for show. The aim is a farm-to-table kitchen that follows the calendar.
Sondej spent six years as head chef under Johannes King at Sölring Hof on Sylt, and fish still shapes his cooking. Der Feinschmecker gave the inn 2.5 in 2026 and singled out sauerkraut dumplings with champagne chervil, grapes and bacon. It also praised Label Rouge salmon with mussels and curry foam.
The fruit is picked by hand from orchard meadows in the northern Black Forest. The best of each run matures for at least a year in a sandstone vault. The wine list leans toward German regions, with Austria, France and Italy alongside. The old dining room has been freshened and feels cozy, with attentive service.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Idyllically situated village inn with traditional orchard meadows and its own distillery in the distilling barn. Head chef Andreas Sondej's menu features tartare, roebuck backstrap, or Icelandic redfish.
Concept Fine dining with a menu that changes every four weeks in line with the seasons. A vegetarian menu. The establishment also includes a distillery school. Culinary Style Andreas Sondej honors producers through his craftsmanship, lists them first on the menu, and also sells their products. For a few years now, Sondej has been working alone in the kitchen and cooks intuitively – rich creations such as sauerkraut dumplings with champagne chervil, grapes, and bacon; he serves Label Rouge salmon and mussels with tomato, fennel, samphire, and curry mussel foam (Sondej worked for several years under Johannes King on Sylt). Zucchini and porcini mushrooms in bean broth with a smoked quail egg offer a refined start to the vegetarian menu. Wine The excellent selection gives pride of place to German regions, with Austria, France, and Italy also represented. House-made spirits. Atmosphere The old dining room has been tastefully refreshed. A cozy ambiance with warm, welcoming service. Conclusion A modern inn where you will want to become a regular.
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