Gault&Millau — 16
The «Löwen», a traditional country inn over 200 years old, is stepping into the future with a new concept: two distinct offerings under one roof! Gourmet cuisine will continue to be served three to four evenings a week, featuring an eight-course menu that bears the distinctive signature of owner-chef Jonas Ingold. Newly introduced in the house is a «Land-Brasserie»: open to all, offering an à la carte selection, grill specialties, and a three-course meal at a highly attractive price. Ingold aims to attract a broader audience and establish the venue as a village meeting point.
We visited Messen before the concept change, looking forward to the gourmet menu. In contrast to other areas, the canton of Solothurn is certainly not short on culinary talent: dedicated trainees ensured impeccable service in the dining rooms. On the culinary front, owner and head chef Jonas Ingold leaves nothing to be desired, whether on his small, classic menu (beef tartare, veal steak) or in his «Tasting Menu» with up to six courses.
The kitchen already demonstrated its skill with the vegetarian starter «Randenvielfalt» featuring braised mallard and horseradish ice cream. Equally delicious was the Wagyu duo alternative, which impressed with its carpaccio, smoked egg yolk cream, herb consommé, and scallion oil (made from the green tops of spring onions). Yet perhaps the finest course of the evening was the delicate brook trout from nearby Kräiligen, served with spinach and bouillabaisse foam, which can optionally be paired with Oona caviar. Surprisingly tender was the dairy cow filet, accompanied by rosemary jus, Bäggli ragout, root vegetables, and potato espuma.
Annemarie Kunz, who oversees the pastry department, wowed us with a composition of Tumcha chocolate mousse, pickled pears, caramel ganache, roasted hazelnuts, and pear sorbet. The extensive wine list also features local selections, including crus from the Limmat Valley.