The story
La Coquerie is a modern seafood restaurant at 1 chemin du Cimetière-Marin in Sète, France, and it holds a Michelin Recommended distinction for 2026. The kitchen cooks a changing six-course menu around what comes off the boats that day, with vegetables from the chef's own garden.
Chef Guilhem Blanc-Brude decides the menu after the fish auction each afternoon. Loup de mer, daurade and squid are the kinds of catch that shape the plates. He trained in Paris at Dilia before returning to his home town, and his cooking keeps that polish with a plainly local accent.
The meal opens with a mullet goujon and pollen hollandaise. Bluefin tuna sashimi arrives with capers and tangerine over cucumber and lacto-fermented asparagus. Line-caught wolffish comes with crab emulsion and rosemary spelt risotto, followed by Aveyron lamb saddle with smoked-butter mash and shellfish jus. Dessert is plum marmalade with wild fennel and fermented milk ice cream, then a squash praline cream puff.
Large windows look out over the Mediterranean, and the open kitchen sits in the middle of the dining room. Seating is limited to about twenty, which also makes the room available for private hire. Arnaud Mirabel leads the wine list, which favours regional bottles and organic and biodynamic producers, with a particular focus on white wines.
Recognition
Ambience
Details
History
Anne Majourel can rest assured: her successor Arnaud Mirabel (from the Bars Populaires group), who has been running La Coquerie since 2019, has kept the central kitchen-bar and the immaculate white tables. Better yet, chef Guilhem Blanc-Brude (ex- Dilia in Paris) has also preserved the six-course set menu, prepared using the catch of the day and vegetables from his kitchen garden. The night we went, with views of the Mediterranean below: a mullet goujon with pollen-infused hollandaise sauce, for the amuse-bouche; a sublime bluefin tuna sashimi sprinkled with capers and tangerine, camouflaging a mixture of cucumber, lacto-fermented asparagus, marigold and a Kalamata olive tapenade; a delicate shrimp/onion ravioli in a coriander-infused tomato water that was colored by saffron oil; a divine, roasted, line-caught wolfish steak, teamed up with a crab emulsion, a briny rosemary spelt wheat risotto and a rose-harissa condiment on the side; incredible roasted Aveyron lamb saddle paired with slow-roasted lamb shoulder, mashed potatoes with smoked butter and a shellfish jus ; tangy plum marmalade served with a plume of wild fennel and a fermented milk ice cream; before a subtle creampuff with squash praline, topped with candied apricot. // A.S.
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