The story
Maison Devaux is a bistro serving modern cuisine at 70 rue du Commerce in Rion-des-Landes, France. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand for 2026, recognising good quality, good value cooking.
Mathis Devaux, a 25-year-old chef from Grenoble, runs the kitchen. He previously worked at Antoine Westermann's Coq Rico in Paris. The dining room has whitewashed walls and rafters, and an open kitchen keeps the cooking in view of guests.
Le Fooding listed the bistro for 2026 after a lunch visit. That meal included line-caught hake ceviche with piment d'Espelette, marinated in orange, ginger, olive oil and honey. Bluefin tuna sat on wasabi pea purée with teriyaki sauce. Dessert was a speculoos and white chocolate cookie under Philadelphia cream cheese ice cream, with Le Tursan raspberry coulis. The menu also offers a tasting format, vegetarian options and outdoor seating.
Recognition
Details
History
good quality, good value cooking
Mathis Devaux gave this small house languishing near the town bullring new life. The result? A beautiful, sleek bistro with whitewashed rafters and walls and an open kitchen, where the 25-year-old Grenoble-native chef (who used to work at Antoine Westermann’s Coq Rico in Paris) prepares high flying compositions. The day we went for lunch, they included: an incredible line-caught Capbreton hake ceviche with piment d’Espelette, bathed in an orange-ginger-olive oil-honey marinade, paired with fennel salad, pickled red onions and a sesame seed squid ink tuile; irreproachable bluefin tuna (caught by the same fisherman) surfing on a wasabi pea purée drizzled in teriyaki sauce, plus a dollop of beetroot cream with pea shoots; before a really good speculoos and white chocolate cookie, hidden underneath Philadelphia cream cheese ice cream, candied cherries, local Le Tursan raspberries as a coulis and a white chocolate tuile. // Gérard Roubeix
Location