Les Enfants Rouges

In the guild of Japanese chefs who are putting their own dazzling twist on French gastronomy, we’ve got our eye on Daï Shinozuka! After sharpening his blades under Yves Camdeborde, he’s been operating this unfussy bistro (ugly brown tiling, wooden furniture) since 2013, discreetly tucked away behind the Marché des Enfants-Rouges covered market. The night we went, the tasting menu showcased regional specialties and featured all of the following: a fresh pea soup with burrata, arugula and mint oil as an amuse-bouche; incredible bass tartare with avocado and stewed turnip, all electrified by lemons from Nice and markut lime, served with feta chantilly cream; white asparagus from the Landes with limequat, skillfully surrounded by haddock cream and a salad of chard and purslane; masterfully prepared Black Angus flank steak, glazed in a rich jus de viande and paired with green asparagus, broad beans and morel mushrooms… before two light and airy desserts made by Mio, the pastry chef: a refreshing trio of litchi preparations (mousse, granita and jelly) plated over grapefruit slices, followed by a pavlova with Dély strawberries, hibiscus meringue, rhubarb compote and chamomile mousse. Another good option is the prix-fixe lunch menu, which might include something like beef terrine with a radish and shiso salad on the side; free-range pork belly with wild garlic risotto; and Basque cheesecake with lemon ice cream and marinated pineapple for dessert. // Adrien Bir