Poissonnerie Kennedy

Just a stone’s throw from the Crique de Malmousque – the go-to cove for international hipsters looking to get their hair tousled by the mistral winds – Poissonnerie Kennedy 2.0 has finally come up for air. You can say adieu to the simple bar and bonjour to the sea itself, as seafood dishes parade their way through this 70s-inspired loft-like space: Quadrifoglio lamps by Gae Aulenti hanging over the open kitchen, seashell-toned floors, folding chairs and marble tables in the main dining room, plus a hidden patio with speakeasy vibes. Running this sparkling new renovation is a powerhouse quartet: Georges Mohammed-Chérif of the Buzzman agency, serial restaurateurs Christophe Juville (Spok, Ippon) and Mathieu Gamaleri (Caché and Amagat in Paris) and chef Thomas Assioma (ex-Duende in Nîmes, La Chassagnette and Hôtel Présent in Arles), dead set on dazzling your taste buds. Just take the day we went, where the small plates joyfully left their mark on the Corniche, despite the somewhat smug staff: a winning trio of smoky taramasalata, unadorned bottarga and a Cantabrian anchovy to start; followed by the chaotic arrival of a punchy bluefin tuna tartare studded with cherries, Padrón peppers and purslane, all electrified by an herb-packed ice cream (basil, sorrel, cilantro, mint); palourde clams which were slightly overcooked, prepared escabèche -style with giant fresh peas grilled on the BBQ; fish croquettes served with spicy langoustine mayo; and mackerel marinated in verjus and petimezi (grape must syrup) with a lovely amount of tang; before rounding out the meal with a light and airy chocolate mousse served with barely sweetened pistachio ice cream. · Madeleine Proust