Grenat

At Grenat, Antoine Joannier and Neil Mahatsry are bathed in an ardent red glow, much like the pomegranate-toned walls of their space. After working together at La Brasserie Communale, where they first met, the duo is now firing on all cylinders in the heart of Marseille, where Antoine tends to guests seated around blonde wood tables, delivering dishes ignited by Neil behind the bar. From oysters to prime cuts of red meat, along with vegetables and fish, everything here gets kissed by the flames, smoked, grilled, braised or branded with a vintage iron. The day we went for lunch, we opted for flame-charred mussels and palourde clams marinière in a warming beef and ’nduja broth, followed by seared octopus paired with grilled kale and smoky Kalamata olive tapenade… Even the desserts get the same fiery treatment, like the smoked fermented milk ice cream served with caramelized white chocolate ganache and topped with walnut granola. From Wednesday to Friday evening, the mood intensifies and the prices rise accordingly for the eight-course tasting menu. // Simone de Bavoir