Baka d'Busk

Behind an unattractive door in Rantzausgade hides a surprise of a restaurant with a wild green menu and natural wines that even the most dedicated carnivore can surrender to. The five owners have embraced the green, although dairy products are not forbidden, giving a bit more leeway. If you give notice in advance, it is possible to be completely plant‑based. The food is prepared in the open kitchen, where the chefs, simply delighted, occasionally take a few dance steps. They like what they make, and it can be tasted. In a combination of seasonality, Middle Eastern knowledge, French enthusiasm and youthful daring, a menu is conjured up with snacks, three starters, a main course and a dessert for only 375 kr. Asparagus is of course a spring theme, unforgettable in the white crisp asparagus – and they are not spared – in a salad with blueberries, macadamia nuts and a saffron lemonade. Saffron is a tricky spice that easily becomes overwhelming, but here it is kept in a tight grip by the lemonade and the blueberries. In the same way the kitchen perfectly balances a vanilla vinaigrette for a salad with tomato, apricot and melon. The colors are bursting, so after the red dishes comes a green with chlorophyll at the center. Creamy parsnips with spinach, green beans, ramsons and plate fillers are filled with the light bitterness of herbs and show that green food has the greatest flavor possibilities. Satiety is guaranteed with a really large main course with sweet potatoes in several colors, fresh corn, palm kale and spicy sauce perfectly matched with Trebbiolo 2019 from La Stoppa on barbera and bonarda grapes. We choose to add a cheese board worthy of a Frenchman, followed by a crumble cake with plums. Enlightened and satisfied we leave the good place, which offers different angles on the green kitchen in Very Good Class.