Gault&Millau — 18.5
Let's be honest: The Chef's Table at Rote Wand in Zug is a gastronomic and culinary beacon whose radiance extends far beyond the Arlberg region. And Julian Stieger's performance is impressive. The fine-tuning that was still necessary in a few spots over the past few years – completely redundant! The menu feels seamless. And the dramaturgy – thankfully unchanged. The evening begins with an aperitif, a few greetings from the kitchen, and a presentation of the ingredients. Two highlights from this phase of the evening: One dish, which kicks off the evening culinarily like a gong, is simply called "Beef" on the (always quite reduced) menu and is a beef broth enriched with butter and mushroom garum. Overwhelmingly aromatic. What a start. Then comes the snack featuring Tyrolean Wagyu. With paper-thin slices of portobello mushroom, fermented pepper, and chives. The Wagyu arrives in the bowl as tartare; Julian Stieger pours dashi over it, bringing the dish to perfection. We could easily stop here with the other bites and still have nothing but praise. But we don't. The first course, served right up at the Chef's Table, is simply called "Saibling" – and is immediately a real highlight. Moreover, one that shows how Stieger works: restrained, precise, and crystal clear. The fish fillet is meticulously cut into small slices, seasoned only with salt and smoke, and floats on an elegant sauce made from fermented vegetables and tomato water. These are just a few examples, but they show exactly what class Stieger and his team play in. Oh, and by the way, the wine pairing (along with the accompanying service) easily holds its own. Address: Zug 5, 6764 Lech am Arlberg, Austria. Contact: 05583 34 3 50 | gasthof@rotewand.com | https://www.rotewand.com/ Opening hours: Wed and Thu 8–11 PM, Fri–Sun 4:30–7:30 PM and 8–11 PM. Team: Julian Stieger, Chef.