Ardor

Amsterdam-born Dorian Janmaat spent much of his childhood in Spain before moving to Cornwall as a teenager. He trained in the county, went on to spend nine years at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons in Oxfordshire (rising to the position of head chef) and returned to Cornwall in 2020 to become executive chef at the Idle Rocks in St Mawes. Finally, he got the opportunity to run his own place in St Ives. His concept at Ardor revolves around the food and culture of the Mediterranean and Iberian Peninsula, with pintxos and tapas setting the tone for a shared dining experience. Highlights from the small plates range from perfectly seasoned, crunchy croquetas topped with wafer-thin jamón to crisp calamari with burnt lemon and a moreish roasted garlic aïoli – both dishes showcasing a refined simplicity that allows the ingredients to shine. After that, the Josper grill takes centre stage, offering succulent dry-aged cuts, juicy and tender chicken souvlaki with warm cumin and garlicky yoghurt topped with apricot harissa, plus a varied selection of Cornish seafood. The extensive daily specials board might include whole wild black bream with Jersey Royals, asparagus, samphire and a tarragon-infused beurre blanc, or a generous serving of beef carpaccio elevated with a Cipriani dressing, wild rocket, truffle, and finely grated lemon and Manchego cheese. The theme continues with desserts, where Iberian classics include an impeccable crema catalana with cherry-laden almond biscotti as well as cinnamon churros with chocolate sauce. To sum up, Ardor offers terrific value, with the bonus of friendly and informative service, a thoughtfully curated wine list and imaginative cocktail pairings.