The Angel

High quality cooking

The Angel has been a fixture in the Guide for many a decade, surviving various culinary eras and changes of look. Its present incarnation, under chef-patron Michael Wignall (ex-Gidleigh Park et al), offers a smartly attired suite of three dining rooms – ours featuring polished concrete floors, lacquered oak tables and seating in soft grey leather. The aura of relaxed informality remains undented, and the view over the Dales is appetising enough, even if you haven't been hiking the long day through. Presented via a mixture of tasting menus and a carte, the cooking has, once again, acquired the innovative edge it had in days gone by. A delightful starter of tomato textures – fresh, cooked, dried and consommé – is served with lovage ice and basil. Even more fragrant is a serving of Shetland crab in buttermilk dashi with oscietra caviar, green strawberries and herb oil. To follow, guinea fowl is poached and sautéed to crisp satisfaction, teamed with roasted hen of the woods mushrooms and puréed corn, while lamb (and its tongue) arrive with a garniture of salsa verde shoehorned into a roll of lettuce, topped with anchovy crumb. Only desserts fell a little flat at inspection, but the incidentals – particularly the ingenious canapés – are all up to the mark. Wines by the glass start at a reasonable £5 for a small measure of a light Macabeo-Verdejo from Spain.

This Yorkshire institution was one of the county’s first gastropubs when it was made famous by the late chef Denis Watkins in the 1980s. Now its reputation is on the rise again under new owner Michael Wignall, who took over the pub with his wife Johanna in 2018. Wignall is one of the UK’s most respected and accomplished chefs and has so far won a Michelin star in every kitchen he has helmed since 1993. The last two venues he has headed – The Latymer at Pennyhill Park in Surrey and Gidleigh Park in Devon – won and retained two stars under his stewardship. At The Angel Wignall is serving up more than mere pub grub, either through his à la carte menu or multi-course tasting menus that are available at both lunch and dinner. Expect a trio of snacks as well as freshly made sourdough and a selection of cultured butters before tucking into some of the most inventive cooking and immaculate plating in the country at the moment. The 15th century pub building is situated on a quiet road in the picturesque village of Hetton and features nine bedrooms, making it an ideal base for visitors to explore the wider Yorkshire Dales National Park.

5 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence