The Silver Cup

Its scores of fans would happily upgrade this unpretentious pub with rooms on a busy road to a Gold Cup, with additional praise ladled on to the Sunday roasts (‘simply wow’) and the ‘exceptional’ steaks. Sadly, we arrived for a late lunch on what must have been an off day. Service had too many slips and the main course of oxtail and beef-cheek pie was a rather sloppy (and expensive) version of cottage pie, without any accompanying vegetables. That said, there’s undoubted talent in the kitchen. A first course of lobster and crab tartlet was terrific: the prawn cocktail-like filling was abundant, creamy and flavourful, encased in a crisp, brittle cup resting on a purée of avocado. Our dessert was also a rich indulgence: the Silver Cup 'Snickers Bar'– a chocolate mousse with a nutty, chocolate casing topped with vanilla ice cream and surrounded by caramel. Several main courses (roasted turbot with crème fraîche or Gloucester Old Spot pork chop with burnt apple, for instance) are for two to share, and a menu of snacks (merguez Scotch eggs or baby burrata with leek and walnut pesto, for example) is now served in the separate saloon bar and the garden. There's also a well-annotated, globetrotting wine list that’s several notches above the pub norm. The local siblings who have run this place since 2020 know how to please their regulars.