Hermitage Rd

Soaring ceilings, monumental windows, enormous light fittings, exposed brick and industrial ducting set the cool, idiosyncratic scene at this modern first-floor bar-restaurant. Now in its second decade, Hermitage Rd has worn in and warmed up very nicely and is even more popular than ever – nicely buzzing on the midweek evening we were in. The food is as cosmopolitan as the surroundings, the open kitchen’s modern brasserie style playing to the gallery with its something-for-everyone approach. The menu proudly identifies and name-checks the source of its produce – Maldon rock oysters, Cromer crab, Staithe Smokehouse salmon – and there’s a tempting array of meats centred around a wood-fired oven, including a variety of Scottish heritage steaks and tender Cornish lamb chops. The stars of our meal ranged from a plate of salt-baked heritage beetroot tossed with Old Winchester cheese, walnuts and sherry vinegar, via nuggets of Korean chicken with crispy noodles, spring onions, chilli and yuzu mayo to a juicy Priors Hall Farm pork chop with apple and Calvados ketchup. A soft, pillowy floating island in crème anglaise was the perfect way to finish. Drinks provide admirable back-up – expect everything from classic cocktails and beers to a far-reaching, reasonably priced wine list with an excellent choice by the glass.

Pleasingly, this street-level sibling below Hermitage Rd bar and restaurant rings with the friendliness you’d expect from a local coffee shop. Considered Hitchin’s meeting spot of choice, it’s a light, airy and contemporary space that encourages lingering – as do the friendly, laid-back staff. It all comes together in a counter laden with excellent vienoisserie, cakes and buns from local micro bakery, Flour 21, plus bagels specially made by Suffolk-based Avi Kniznik of Bagel or Beigel, which are filled with the likes of Staithe Smokehouse salmon and cream cheese, or salt beef with gherkins and mustard mayo. And, of course, there is very good coffee.