Kelp

Kelp brings a breezy informality to its rather overlooked location opposite Glasgow's Theatre Royal. Outdoor space is surprisingly roomy and secluded given the nearby traffic, while indoors is stylishly pared-back. Although proudly showcasing sustainable Scottish seafood, this could as easily be an Atlantic-facing eatery in St Ives or San Sebastián. Freshness and flavour come with broad culinary influences and a few original innovations. Local Cumbrae oysters get a twist from a choice of accompaniments (apple and dill, rhubarb and ginger or seaweed hot sauce). Warm sourdough with whipped smoky scallop roe is so good that second servings may be required. The inevitable small plates allow you to range from tender squid with a pokey mango, habanero chilli and coriander salsa to perfectly cooked coley in a soft curry sauce with shoestring potatoes. Shetland mussels are fat and fabulous in their beer, bacon and leek sauce, with proper chips to mop up the extra. The kitchen’s light-touch homage to the sea is ably supported by well-crafted desserts such as Basque cheesecake with rhubarb and orange or sea-salted caramel tart with clotted-cream ice cream. Wines are affordable and well-matched to the menu’s focus.

1 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence