Starling

High quality cooking

‘A very noteworthy addition to the Surrey dining scene,’ Starling references the namesake avian and its murmuration displays with copper-colour bird-in-flight pendant lights and an ornithological mural against a stylishly modern backdrop of half-panelled walls and blue padded booths. Staff are suitably ‘chirpy’ too, while ticking all the boxes for friendliness and well-oiled professionalism. Chef-patron Nick Beardshaw has a formidable pedigree, most notably as Tom Kerridge’s right-hand man, and his menus are peppered with ingredients from highly respected producers and suppliers. Boldly flavoured, perfectly executed snacks such as truffle cheese crumpets and honey-glazed chicken nuggets immediately set the tone before show-stopping starters have their say. Despite its rather gimmicky presentation, ‘A Moon-Shaped Pool’ (one of Beardshaw’s contributions to Great British Menu 2023 ) delivers some seriously gifted, thoughtful cooking involving a super-fresh, sweet Orkney scallop, luscious green Thai curry, ‘salty fingers’ and marinated cucumber. Mains might bring bang-in-season English asparagus with punchy glazed morels and a perfect deep-fried egg nesting on a ring of soft polenta, or West End Farm pork tenderloin served with braised baby gem, a slice of malt-glazed pork cheek, dehydrated crackling, glazed shallot and gherkin gravy – a masterclass in balanced flavours, textures and seasoning. Prime steaks also receive serious consideration (including Freedown Hills olive-fed wagyu ribeye). To conclude, there might be an English strawberry sundae or Amalfi lemon tart, but it’s hard to resist Beardshaw’s much-lauded Banksy-inspired ‘Balloon Girl’ (another GBM standout), a heart-shaped raspberry-glazed cheesecake/chocolate torte hybrid represented the 'balloon', with white chocolate-coated rice paper depicting the image itself. There's also an impressively good-value midweek lunch offer ranging from chalk stream trout pâté with a buttered crumpet to an exceedingly comforting plateful of Cotswold White chicken, soft polenta, peas and bacon. Wines served in top-quality glassware provide the final touch of class, with a cherry-picked selection of producers from around the globe and some appealing by-the-glass selections at fair prices.