Langar Hall

Nothing much changes at Langar Hall – and therein lies its appeal. Though it’s been business for some three decades, there is something timeless about following the long avenue of limes to this tangerine-hued country house – a little idyll surrounded by fields and ancient fish ponds, with a medieval church tower peeking above its roof. Inside, a maze of dining rooms is done out with eccentricity and elan – think Persian carpets, chandeliers, Grecian statues, Buddhas and armchairs sporting 'Paul Smith' stripes. There is character in the cooking too – some make the journey specifically for the twice-baked cheese soufflé, though other starters might include wild sea bass with asparagus, topped with brown shrimps and a dollop of lovage dressing. Mains span the traditional (satisfying Sunday lunch-style braised lamb shank with spring greens) to the more eclectic (skate wing with Thai crab broth and an unadvertised crab bao bun on the side). Desserts were a highlight of our lunchtime visit – especially a passion-fruit tart with peanut butter and white-chocolate ice cream, eaten slowly to savour views of the afternoon sun filtering through the yews, and creeping over croquet lawns. Set lunch menus represent especially good value, and the wine list leans heavily on the Old World. It's also worth dipping into the cocktail list at the little corner bar, where concoctions pay tribute to the late Imogen Skirving, the visionary 'chatelaine' who inherited Langar Hall in 1983 (it's now run by her granddaughter Lila Arora).

2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence