The Flint House

good quality, good value cooking

One of Brighton's most striking restaurants is a light and airy space, housed in a handsome purpose-built two-storey brick building in the Hannington's 'retail and cultural quarter' development in the Lanes. Part of Ben McKellar's Gingerman group, the Flint House deals in small and sharing plates – nothing new, but with its enthusiastic and imaginative take on the concept, the kitchen keeps the idea fresh. Exuberantly eclectic, the food investigates a multitude of culinary traditions, perhaps serving East Asian-influenced miso and chilli emulsion with tender braised ox cheek fried in a crisp breadcrumb coating, and offering a rustic assembly of roasted aubergine, coconut yoghurt and curried lentils finished with a sprightly Middle Eastern-style dukkah spice mix. Go easy though, portions can be on the generous side, but don't miss the signature sweetcorn fritters with jalapeño mayonnaise, a staple since the restaurant opened in 2019. They go perfectly with a glass of locally made Ridgeview English sparkling from the concise but globally spanning wine list, especially when sitting at the counter by the open kitchen or on the first-floor rooftop terrace overlooking the Lanes. Not everything hits the mark, although the front-of-house team are efficient and professional but pleasantly relaxed, with a knack for creating a lively, upbeat atmosphere.