Osteria del Centro

The story

Osteria del Centro, Lugano: Vegetable-Led Modern Cuisine in Comano

Osteria del Centro sits at Via Cantonale 50 in Comano, just outside Lugano, where the kitchen builds its modern cuisine around vegetables and holds 15 points in the Gault&Millau 2026 guide.

Chef Piero Roncoroni and the vegetable menu

Piero Roncoroni came back to his native Ticino after years in England and in three-star kitchens in Barcelona and San Sebastián. He runs the seven-table room with his wife Mercedes. The menu is now entirely vegetarian, though meat was once available as a main course.

Dishes from the garden

Bread arrives with "Burro non burro," a spread of zucchini and olive oil. A carrot takes the place of meat in a Wellington, served with carrot cream and verjus foam. White asparagus under a blanc-manger comes with rhubarb and elderflower, and dessert is a crème brûlée made from peas, paired with strawberry salad and sorbet.